Oyster Dome
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May 28, 2009 - 06:00 AM

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Vince Richardson

It takes a bit of effort to reach Oyster Dome high on the flanks of Blanchard Mountain. The views truly take hikers’ breath away.

Parking fills up early for this popular trailhead. There is some parking on the east side of the road, though the larger strip of parking is along the west side.

Be prepared for a steep climb that goes from almost sea level to a splendid rock shelf high above. The rock shelf, known as Oyster Dome, offers views of Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountain Range.

The trail climbs, twists and turns through a portion of the Chuckanut Mountains. Though there are some extremely steep sections of trail, the work to get to the top is worth every carefully-placed step.

Oyster Dome sits atop a rock outcropping. From the rock face, the views of the surrounding mountains and waterways are impressive. It’s not uncommon to see turkey vultures, bald eagles or other feathered fowl riding the thermals that rise from the ground below as it warms.

Make sure to stop at the Bat Caves either on the way up or on the way down from Oyster Dome.

The caves, which are nearly as famous as the dome itself, are actually cleaved, house-sized boulders that fell from Oyster Dome high above.

Gaps, crevasses and caves litter the area. Rocks lay precariously atop one another, forming the sometimes cathedral-size caverns.

Don’t expect to stumble upon Batman or Robin while spelunking in the area. Rather, these caves are named for the Thompson big-eared bats that frequently use the dank recesses as a place to roost.

A word to the wise. If you decide to do some spelunking, make sure you are prepared and have some experience. Many of the entrances to the caves are steep and slick. And while they may appear shallow at first glance, the subterranean landscape can quickly change.

The best bet may be just to leave the caves to the bats.

Distance: 6.5 miles

Destination: Oyster Dome

Difficulty: Difficult

Elevation gain: 1,900 feet

Getting there: From I-5, take Highway 11 (Chuckanut Drive) north for 10.2 miles. The trailhead is on the right side of the road just after milepost 10.

The Trek: The first section of trail — about two miles — is upon the Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail, a 1,200-mile long trek that runs from Cape Alava on the Olympic Peninsula to Montana’s Glacier National Park.

That’s the reason for the “Rock Talk” mailbox at the start of the hike. The pair of rock-encased mailboxes are for through-hiker correspondence. Basically, it’s a rudimentary message center.

A few steps farther on, an inscribed rock has the distances to major spots along the PNT. From the spot, it’s 883 miles to the Rocky Mountains and 223 miles to the Pacific Ocean.

Continue past the mileage rock, relieved you don’t have a 60-pound pack on your back and hundreds of miles ahead of you.

Begin the first of many climbs as the trail ventures upward and the road below slowly fades. Switchback across the mountain’s flank on a trail that is narrow and rocky. Trees dot the steep landscape, seemingly clinging to the hillside.

There are a few respites from the incline along the early part of the route. Switchback at a mass of trees leveled by winter storms as the climb continues.

Twisting past a couple of broken stumps, pass a huckleberry bush growing out of another stump. Through the trees, you can get a glimpse of Puget Sound. This is just a taste of what’s to come.

The trail briefly levels out as it makes its way past a couple of burnt trees before once again climbing.

At one mile, reach a clearing on a hillside complete with not only views, but a bench on which to sit and take in the surroundings. The rocky outcropping resembles a scaled-down version of the massive Oyster Dome, your destination that looms high above.

A keen eye can even see oyster pens in the bay far below, and in the distance the Olympic Mountains.

Continuing on, the trail descends for a short distance before once again turning uphill.

At the 1.9-mile mark, reach the first major intersection. At this point, the PNT takes the switchback and continues to the right.

Stay straight on what is now the Samish Bay Connection Trail, a more rugged route. A metal sign attached to a tree proclaims the route to several trails — Ice Age, Talus (1.2 miles), Rock (1.3 miles) and Lily Lake (1.9 miles).

The path narrows as it climbs the western flank of Blanchard Mountain. Large trees dot the landscape, the roots of which make each step a guarded one. The sound of rushing water can be heard in the distance. Pass a burnt stump on the left moments before reaching a stream.

I was not the only one carefully picking my rocky-route through the stream on this day. In the brook’s cold waters, a large banana slug was crossing as well. Completely submerged, the slug made its way slowly along.

On the other side of the stream, one is greeted by a steep pitch with plenty of exposed roots. Reach a section of trail of exposed, mud-slickened rock.

Just past the base of the rock face in about a half-mile, reach another intersection. The trail diving off to the left is the unmaintained Oyster Trail. This trail starts farther north at Oyster Creek.

Stay to the right to continue on to Oyster Dome.

Somehow, the grade manages to steepen as it winds through a patch of marsh and enters a canopy-enshrouded section of trail. Hop, skip and jump across another stream — this one minus the slug — and continue on.

Massive boulders litter the landscape. The boulder field is large and bordered on one side by a sheer, moss-covered rock wall.

Hike up a steep pitch littered with roots and rocks.

At the top of the slope, locate a tree that boasts a sign that reads “Ice Age.” It explains the natural forces at work in this area eons ago. Just beyond the sign, an enormous piece of sandstone tells the story.

According to the sign, “Grooved striations atop this particular matrix of Chuckanut sandstone were made by regolith slowly rumbling along about 18,000 years ago under the pressure of a glacier one mile high.”

Descend into a gully. The low spot is made up of mud and standing water. Hop over several logs and continue on.

The next intersection is with the Talus Trail. This route leads to the base of Oyster Dome and the infamous Bat Caves. Head downhill and cross a rather rickety bridge spanning a creek-carved gorge. Traipse up the other side and venture between two huge boulders. Switchback to the right and pass through another boulder field.

On the outskirts of the Bat Caves, trails crisscross the area. You have the option of scurrying up and over any number of massive rock slabs or venturing around the jumbled mess. Crevasses abound. Carefully pick your way and set out.

Don’t be surprised if as you make your way from boulder to boulder voices echo from below. Plenty of spelunkers enjoy exploring the dark and dank caves. The exploration of these caverns, however, should be left to those who specialize in such activities.

After the short detour, return to the main trail and proceed to the right to reach Oyster Dome.

From here, the trail continues to gain elevation at a torrid pace. As the trail gets steep and rocky, the legs and lungs begin to burn.

After covering about 0.1 mile, reach the top of the grade and a “T” intersection. This is the Rock Trail. Going to the right leads to Lily Lake. Proceed left to reach the dome.

Along the way, pass several thick cables as well as a piece of rusting railroad track. Both are relics of a era of logging and steam engines.

Descend into a gully and venture across another stream before beginning the final ascent. The last section of trail is basically a staircase of uneven roots. Once atop the incline, proceed to the left through a gap in the greenery and break out onto the Oyster Dome. The wind whips across the barren space. A few trees managed to take root in the rock, as have a number of bushes.

The views from the dome are impressive.

To the west, islands — including Fidalgo, Whidbey, Lummi, Orcas, Guemes and Vancouver — and the Olympic Mountains explode from a panorama of blue water and skies.

Far below, a carpet of trees blankets the flanks of the Chuckanuts. Directly below, the fractured surfaces forming the Bat Caves can be seen. Oyster Dome’s flanks are nothing more than a precipice, so choose your steps wisely.

Oyster Dome is a destination to be savored. Take the time to soak in the surroundings as well as the wildlife.

After enjoying the fruits of your labor, prepare for the knee-jarring trek back to the rig.



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