Shark Reef Sanctuary
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June 25, 2009 - 09:20 AM
Last Updated: June 25, 2009 - 09:24 AM

Vince Richardson

The San Juan Channel borders the trail.

While this trail is short, it’s oh so sweet. The views near the end of the trail are breathtaking as one ventures along long, rocky bluffs. Across San Juan Channel is San Juan Island and its famous Cattle Point.

Make sure to bring your binoculars. They are necessary to view the abundant wildlife.

The area is named for a reef that lies about a mile north of the park. Kings Point lies between where you stand and the reef itself.

Parking is tight. The lot can hold about eight cars. Parking along the street is the other option.

Distance: 1 mile

Destination: Overlook of San Juan Channel

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation gain: Minimal

Getting there: From the ferry dock on Lopez Island, follow Ferry Road south for 2.2 miles to a junction with Center Road. Go right on Fisherman Bay Road. Drive five miles, passing through Lopez Village. Turn right on Airport Road. In 0.4 of a mile, turn left on Shark Reef Road. Drive 1.8 miles to Shark Reef Sanctuary.

The Trek: Set out on a trail of woodchips that leads into a forest where salal dominates the understory. Giving the salal a run for its money is stinging nettle. The prickly plant borders the trail as well.

A short distance from the trailhead, a section of devastated forest is reached. This winter’s high winds sent plenty of trees crashing to the ground. Many had their rootballs pulled from the ground.

Pass a large Douglas fir tree on the left as the trail twists and turns its way through the forest. The trail becomes rocky as several interesting-shaped trees are passed. One is shaped like an “S.”

While the area is peaceful and calm now, it obviously wasn’t in the past. A fire ravaged the area, and many snags, stumps and trees bear the scares of the inferno.

The quarter-mile of trail up to this point has been flat. It now descends as bay-filled views come into view through the trees.

Break out of the forest and step out upon the top of a massive rock that doubles as an overlook. A rocky coastline extends north and south. Massive kelp beds can be seen where the rocks disappear below the waves of San Juan Channel.

Scenery-wise, this is just of taste of what lies ahead.

The trail continues to the left. Feel free to descend anywhere along the route where it’s safe to do so. There are plenty of tide pools to explore. However, remember if the tide is coming in, the situation can change quickly and rocks that were high and dry may become islands or disappear under the waves altogether.

The well-trodden trail twists and turns as it makes its way atop the rocky cliffs. Below lies plenty of rocks, kelp and driftwood.

A hairpin turn to the right leads to the cliff’s edge. The trail is now totally exposed and the views are fantastic. The air is crisp and salty. Boats bob on the water as fishermen try their luck, and massive pleasure craft cruise past.

Flapping in the wind attached to a lone tree flies the flag of the Jolly Roger. Make your way under a fallen snag.

Keep a keen eye out for seal lions and harbor seals frolicking in the water below, effortlessly gliding among pieces of broken kelp. With each step, the views improve. Also worth looking at are the wild flowers in bloom. Pockets of bright colors dot the otherwise barren landscape. Trees, ravaged by the wind, grow in peculiar shapes and sizes.

The trail comes to an abrupt end at the sanctuary boundary. A sign lets it be known that from here on it is private property.

Take a seat on a flat rock and soak it all in. Deadman Island is directly in front of you. It’s part of a jumble of rocks lying about 400 feet offshore. Harbor seals breed here. Glaucus-winged gulls and oystercatchers nest in the rocks crevices.

The entire area is part of the San Juan Islands Wilderness Area.

Looking across the channel through binoculars, you can see people scramble up, over and around Cattle and Lighthouse points on San Juan Island. Mount Finlayson rises above it all.
To the west, the Olympic Mountains can be seen.

Numerous shorebirds fly about. Busy birdwatchers, with lists in hand, quickly note the species.

After getting your fill of salty air and wildlife, pick yourself up and begin the trek back to the rig.




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