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Keystone Spit
May 14, 2009 - 11:00 AM
by Vince Richardson
Keystone Spit, which is part of Fort Casey State Park, has an interesting history.
After the Vashon Glacier retreated from the area about 15,000 years ago, the waters of Puget Sound eroded the coastal bluffs of Whidbey Island. Combined with waves and currents, massive amounts of rock were deposited along the expanding coastline.
Over time, sand and gravel bars built up on each side of the bay, and eventually joined to cut off the shallow bay.
A large tidal lagoon and salt marsh were formed. They eventually became Crockett Lake.
What remains of the lake is located across the road.
In 1890, land speculators made plans for a town they would name “Chicago.”
A railroad would link Chicago with other Puget Sound communities. Chicago, however, never boomed and the railroad never arrived.
Across the road to the north, pilings from the shoreline to the middle of the lake are all that remain of the proposed railroad bridge.
In the 1970s, the idea of a town was revisited, but only two model homes were built.
Years of battle between area residents and spit developers ended with a land exchange between Olympic National Park and Washington State Parks. The spit was preserved after being included in Fort Casey State Park.
The model homes were burned to the ground by firefighters as a training exercise in 1988.
Distance: 1 1/2 miles
Destination: End of spit
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation gain: None
Getting there: From Highway 20 in Coupeville, turn south on Engle Road. Turn left just before the Keystone Ferry Terminal and enter the parking lot.
The Trek: After parking in the lot, locate three placards that describe the “Chicago” debacle, as well as the sights and sounds to be experienced along the spit’s length.
On a clear day, the Olympic Mountains, including The Brothers, Green Mountain, 7,743-foot Mount Constitution, 6,280-foot Mount Townsend, Mount Mystery, Mount Deception, The Needles, 6,384-foot Tyler Peak, Graywolf Ridge and Baldy Peak can be seen.
Set out down the shoreline. One can walk along the shore or on the road above it.
For the purposes of this writing, I trekked down the shoreline, then returned on the road that at one time was to provide access to the homes that were to be built here.
To the right is the breakwater for the Keystone Ferry. Several fishermen had ventured out onto the structure to try to land any of the various bottom fish that call the water home.
Early residents of Puget Sound traveled the open waters on the right in small boats as well as dugout canoes. A trip to Olympia by canoe took at least two days, and that was if the weather was cooperative.
Venturing down the shoreline, there is plenty of beachcombing to be done. Walking along the beach, one can imagine what the area looked like a century ago.
Pass the remains of what appears to be an old pier. On this sunny day, the pilings were topped with cormorants. The diving shorebirds had their wings spread wide in an attempt to dry them.
The area is a Mecca for bird watchers. The combination of fresh water and salt water attracts plenty of fowl.
Continuing on, the spit narrows slightly as it makes its way south. Not much changes except for the amount of driftwood that is stacked up. Everything from branches to massive logs litter the coastline in shapes that resemble broken whale carcasses.
Once you’ve hiked the spit as far as you wish, scurry over the driftwood to the area above. From there, pick up the road and head back to the rig.