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Trail of the Cedars
March 20, 2008 - 01:33 PM
by Vince Richardson

Water runs down a moss-covered rock face.
Every so often, you stumble onto something different. That’s what took place on this hike. Though I had hiked the Trail of the Cedars before, I was returning to see how it had fared during the winter. This time around, I ventured up the Evacuation Route for something a little different.

This path leads to safety in case any of the dams upriver fail. It’s steep, but the payoff once you reach the Safe from Flood sign is worth the effort.

Plus, you get to see a fantastic little falls that otherwise remains hidden in the thick forest.

The Trail of the Cedars is a great jaunt in itself. It’s perfect for the kids — short and sweet — and is a great spot to stretch your legs if traveling along Highway 20. This is an interpretive trail, so be prepared to read signs strategically placed along the path.

The trees along the route, like most in this area, tend to be of the jaw-dropping variety. Children will have a good time craning their necks to get a glimpse of the tops.

Distance: 1.5 miles

Destination: Loop trail

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation gain: 700 feet

Getting there: East on Highway 20 (North Cascades Highway) to Newhalem. Turn right just before the steam locomotive and park at the end of the street. Cross the suspension bridge spanning the Skagit River to reach the trailhead.

The Trek: Before crossing the bridge, take a look at a couple of signs. One boasts a picture of Newhalem in 1920. This is the first of a myriad of signs that bombard hikers with information. There are even two midway across the bridge.

Speaking of the bridge, set out across the heavy-duty structure, with the raging Skagit River flowing below. Despite its size, the span still has some bounce to it when walked across.

After crossing the bridge, follow the trail right, then stay to the left.

This small portion of forest includes numerous species of trees. It’s easy to figure out which trees put their roots down first. The older ones bear the scars of forest fires.

Signs tell stories of the area and point out species of trees, plants and animals.

The trail’s turn-around point comes at the old Newhalem Powerhouse, which was originally built in 1921.

It suffered the same fate as much of the area — in 1966, it caught fire. If it hadn’t been for a pipe bursting and spraying the area with water, everything may have gone up in flames. The spray of water restricted the loss to the powerhouse alone.

It was rebuilt in 1970.

There are more signs on the powerhouse’s north wall. To the left of the powerhouse is a sign proclaiming “Evacuation Route.”

Cross Newhalem Creek and take the Evacuation Route trail, which hugs the hillside. Ferns seemingly attempt to grab ahold of your boots at every step.

Reaching the first switchback, pause and listen. The sound of falling water is near. Look through a gap under a huge log to see a wall of water. It’s easy to miss this spot on your way up the trail. On the return, the top of the falls can just be seen through the trees.

The waterfall is by no means massive. However, it has plenty of character.

On both sides of the main falls, water filters through thick, moss-covered rock before flowing off the cliff in a steady stream.

It’s difficult to get much closer to the falls. Doing so means navigating under the large fallen tree, then making your way up what is basically a mass of fern-covered boulders.

After careening over the precipice, the water continues its raucous descent to the canyon floor before merging with the Skagit River.

Continuing up the trail, there are plenty of stumps sporting springboard notches.

The trail eventually levels out in a clearing.

Chainsaws have been busy here. Numerous trees have been cut to minimize the chances of them damaging the dam’s large penstock pipe.

There are plenty of signs of blowdown. Walk under one fallen tree, then hop across a small stream on a well-placed log round.

The trail then climbs past old-growth timber. The way soon becomes more of a gully than a trail as water has found the trail the path of least resistance. The soil all but gone, it’s now nothing but rock.

The end of the line is proclaimed by a sign reading “Safe from Flood.” It’s also where the pipe leading to the powerhouse emerges from a tunnel bored through the mountain. If the weather cooperates, there’s a great view of the Picket Range.

After descending to the powerhouse, complete the loop by passing a 188-foot western red cedar that boasts a 7-foot, 6-inch base.

Cross the bridge and return to the rig.