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Beacon Rock is an interesting trek for a number of reasons. It has geological and historical significance. About 53 switchbacks lead hikers up the south side of the rock to a small, flat summit that offers fantastic views of the Columbia River Gorge.

The trek, however, is not for the faint of heart. Vast sections of the trail were blasted out of the side of the rock, while other portions seemingly grab fast onto Beacon Rock’s sheer faces.
There’s not much protection along the route. Railings of aluminum tubing and wrought iron are all that separate hikers from abyss.

The 848-foot high monolith is the core of an ancient volcano. Ice-age floods that roared through the Columbia River Gorge eroded the volcano’s softer flank material, leaving the massive chunk of rock towering alone on the banks of the Columbia.

The monolith, known to American Indians as Che-che-op-tin, was once a point of reference on the Columbia River, marking the end of a long stretch of tumultuous rapids. From Beacon Rock to the Pacific Ocean, the river is relatively calm.

Once dams were built, the rapids ceased to exist.

Beacon Rock is said to have been first climbed by princess Wahatpolitan in her attempt to save her baby son from her angry father who didn’t approve of her marriage. Legend has it that mother and child perished atop the rock, and that Wahatpolitan’s wailing can still be heard when summer winds blow over the summit.

The rock was also referenced by Lewis and Clark.

A sign reads: “While scouting a passage through the ‘Great Shoote,’ treacherous rapids that once existed a few miles up stream from here, William Clark and Joseph Field of the Lewis and Clark Expedition observed a ‘remarkably high detached rock... we call the Beaten Rock.’

“In Oct. of 1805, Clark recorded the name ‘Beaten Rock’ several times in his journals and on his carefully drawn map of the area. Then, during the spring 1806 return trip, Clark began using the name ‘Beacon Rock.’”

It’s unclear why Clark first named the monolith Beaten Rock. Theories include that it was because of its weathered appearance. “Beacon” may refer to the rock’s prominence as a landmark.

In 1811, Alexander Ross of the John Jacob Astor expedition called the rock “Inoshoack Castle.”

Pioneer settlers referred to it as Castle Rock.

In 1915, Henry J. Biddle purchased the massive chunk of rock. He completed a trail to the top in 1918.

In 1916, the United States Board on Geographical Names officially restored Clark’s name of Beacon Rock.

In 1935, Biddle’s heirs turned the area over to the state for use as a park. Nicholas Biddle of Philadelphia edited the first of the Lewis and Clark Journals in 1814.

Also worth noting, there is plenty of poison oak lurking just off the path. Watch where you choose to rest. Of course, venturing beyond the railing is not only forbidden, it’s extremely stupid. Just stick to what can be seen safely from the trail.

The Trek: After parking in the main lot east of Beacon Rock and Beacon Rock State Park, head west up the road to find the Beacon Rock Trailhead. There is a large sign to identify the route.

Start on a trail of gravel, then cross a bridge made up entirely of boulders.

Continuing to climb, the menacing flanks of Beacon Rock are eventually reached. Greeted by a sheer rock wall on the left and a near-vertical drop-off on the right, continue to climb. It’s not long before the first of many switchbacks is encountered.

Without the switchbacks, getting to the top of Beacon Rock would require climbing gear. Even with the switchbacks, nerves of steel are required.

The path fluctuates between surfaces of gravel, rock, concrete and boardwalk.

Soon reach a massive green steel portal. Its door is slammed shut by park rangers at dusk and reopened at 8 a.m.

Trekking through the portal, hikers are greeted by a precipice on the right and a rock wall on the left. The rock wall is not only vertical, but close to being an overhang.

Continuing up, the magnitude of the gorge unfolds before you in all its splendor. If the day is clear, sun shimmers off the waters of the Columbia River while highlighting the surrounding mountains.

The most nerve-wracking portions of this trek are the boardwalks. Peering down between the slats, nothing lies below except space. Often, a glance overhead reveals either blue sky through the planks, yet another boardwalk or the tread on the bottom of another hiker’s boots.

A plaque cemented to the rock face tells the story of the trail. The task of building the path was nothing short of monumental. Massive iron eye hooks sunk deep into exposed rock are still visible. The steel eyes were used for securing heavy loads during construction.

As the ascent continues, the views become more impressive and expansive. Several spots allow hikers to see anchored boats bobbing in swells of the river while other boats roar along far below. At every switchback, the views become more astonishing.

The closer you get to the top, the shorter the distances are between switchbacks. It’s as if the trail was built out of an erector set.

There are a few sections of the original railing left along the route, comprised of green, ornate iron.

The trail eventually bends to the left before heading east and entering a stand of trees. Looking east, Bonneville Dam and the towns of North Bonneville and Cascade Locks can be seen in the distance.

Hike upon a surface of worn, seemingly hand-smoothed rock. Hikers’ boots have left something of a polished finish on the rugged surface.

Because the rock is uneven, those with poor ankles will want to choose their steps carefully. On the trail’s rocky flanks, moss covers vast sections in a coat of brown this time of the year. During the summer, the carpet is a lush green.

Hiking Beacon Rock in the fall offers one a painter’s palette worth of colors as foliage sheds its green for shades of gold, brown, red and yellow. Winter brings browns, grays and whites into play.

After negotiating a hogs-back and walking below a shaded ridge on the rock’s west side, reach a set of steep concrete steps leading to the summit.

Once atop, cars can be seen snaking their way along the asphalt ribbon of Highway 14, while the massive Columbia River carves its way through the gorge. It’s 360 degrees worth of views.

The summit is a small, rocky knoll dotted with several hardy pine trees. Pictures taken from this spot are of the postcard variety.

During the winter, when things in the gorge can get a bit dicey because of ice and snow, you can expect to see few hikers on the trail.

That’s not the case during the summer. When the sun shines bright, expect to have plenty of company.

After soaking up the views from atop the rock, prepare for a quick descent back to the rig.

For some, it’s quicker than others. While I was making the trek, a local cross country team was running the trail.

Distance: 2 miles

Destination: Top of the rock

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation gain: 848 feet

Getting there: I-5 south toward Vancouver, Wash. Just north of Vancouver, take I-205 south. Take I-205 to the exit for Hwy. 14 (last exit before crossing the Columbia River). Take Hwy. 14 east. Beacon Rock is located at milepost 35.