Susan Berta, co-founder of the Orca Network, is used to seeing whales.

The whales she encounters are black and white, toothy, enjoy cold water and can be seen only from afar. As Berta said, “I’m rather orcacentric.”

Like many, Berta had heard of the up close and personal encounters with the more approachable and cuddly gray whales in the warm, hospitable waters off the coast of Baja.

Because of her experience with orcas, Berta was a bit skeptical.

That skepticism was quickly replaced by sheer amazement after she ventured to San Ignacia Lagoon as part of the inaugural Orca Network-sponsored trip in 2006. The lagoon is within the one million acre Vizcaino Biosphere Reserve.

“It was absolutely amazing,” Berta said of the trip. “Last year, I had heard all about the whales and their friendly behavior. I really did find it hard to believe. I mean, whales coming up to boats, that’s hard to believe.

“But that was exactly the situation we encountered. It was just amazing. The whales were coming right up to our boat. They weren’t a bit hesitant. It was really incredible.”

Numerous “friendly” whales sought out the attention of the group, which was more than willing to offer the massive mammals a scratch or pat.

Last year’s excursion was such a success that Greenbank’s Orca Network will return to the area this year. Those interested in making the Feb. 23-27 trek can reserve one of six remaining spots for $2,230. Participants are responsible for their flight to and from San Diego, and lodging the nights before and after the trip.

From San Diego, all expenses are paid, including transportation, meals, lodging and whale watching.

The group will stay at Campo Cortez, one of eight camps scattered along the southeastern shore of the bay.

“It is all managed so well,” Berta said. “That really surprised me as well. The local communities understand how important ecotourism is to them. They work really hard to make your stay very pleasant.”

The trip will raise money for Orca Network’s Sighting Network and education programs while also providing an opportunity for those making the trip to watch and learn about gray whales on the southern end of their migration.

Cathy Scott of Bow will be making the trek. She’s ventured north of Vancouver Island to see orcas, but has never seen a gray whale up close.

“I guess I am what could be called a whale fanatic,” Scott said. “I am so excited about being able to go. It’s an amazing opportunity and I can hardly wait. I mean you get to hang out with whales, drink beer and margaritas — now that’s a great time.”

Every January, hundreds of gray whales arrive at San Ignacia Lagoon from Alaska to give birth and care for their offspring in the warm, safe waters of the peninsula’s two square mile lagoon. This time of the year is vitally important because calves must build enough strength to survive the perils of the open ocean.

“I am not really too familiar with the area,” Scott admitted, “but I am doing my homework. I do know it’s really out in the boonies.”
Gray whales begin their migration north in early April.

“We go out into the lagoon twice a day,” Berta explained. “The area we boat to is very near where we stay. It’s a very short boat ride. Along the way, you can see whales, along with dolphins, sea lions and lots of sea birds.”

The lagoon is home to about 221 bird species. Ospreys, cormorants and pelicans fish the waters, while falcons, gold and bald eagles patrol the skies. Rare species such as endangered peninsular pronghorns and green sea turtles can also be seen.

Besides whale watching, folks will be able to go on naturalist led tours of tide pools as well as desert plant walks.

Speaking of naturalists, several will be at the group’s disposal, including Oregon gray whale researcher Carrie Newell of Whale Research Excursions. Newell will join Campo Cortez naturalist Caroline Armon in sharing their knowledge of the whales and the area. Newell is well versed in gray whale migration as it pertains to both the northern and southern destinations.

Obviously, it’s the whales that are the big draw.

“They are just amazing to see,” Berta said. “They are everywhere. You get to see their mating behavior as well as many of the behaviors we see in our orcas, such as spyhopping and breaching.”

It’s not unusual for mothers to bring their calves up to a boat and rub against it.

“I hesitate to think of them as friendly, remarked Scott. “Yet they do come right up to the boat to be scratched. Then they drop down a little ways before coming right back. Honestly, I think they are amazingly smart creatures.”

Berta said visitors get a feel for the size of the whales once they are among them.

“You feel very small,” she said. “Once they approach the boat, you get a real good feeling how big they are. We had friendly encounters on all but one trip. That’s pretty good considering there is only a very small percentage of the whales that actually seek out people.”

There are 16 boats that have permits to take tourists on the lagoon. The industry is carefully monitored. Those entering the area are documented and stays are limited to 90 minutes.

Leaving after 90 minutes is sometimes easier said than done.

Berta recalled how on one trip last year, as their captain was trying to depart the lagoon, a mother and calf halted their progress.

“We were trying to head back,” Berta said, “and the captain noticed that we were on an intersect course with a mother and her calf. He stopped the boat and the whales turned 90 degrees and came right up in front of us. They were both practically holding onto the boat. They really didn’t want us to go.

“There’s a situation where we were trying to elude them — and they sought us out. That is really unexplainable. It’s an indescribable experience.”

Such “friendly” experiences are typical, both on and off the water.

“You meet so many nice people,” Berta said. “You eat great food. We have entertainment. There are plenty of margaritas. The people there are fantastic. You get to know them and their culture and what they have done to support ecotourism. Plus, it’s a good time of year to get away from this climate.”

And one might even learn a thing or two. Berta did.

“One thing is for sure,” Berta said, “I will never again say that gray whales are boring.”

• Vince Richardson can be reached at 360-416-2181 or by e-mail at .