Our region is renowned for gray, rainy skies, but in summer we usually get less rainfall than Tucson, Ariz. This month, area reservoirs are at their lowest, while demand for irrigation water peaks.

Dry gardens and lawns cry out for a long drink of water, but you want to conserve that precious liquid. What’s a gardener to do?

Go native — grass to groundcover

Lawns are almost always the biggest water guzzlers in your yard. Do you actually use all that grass or does it use up hours of your time to mow, water and rake it? How many croquet games or football tournaments have you hosted in the past few years?

This is a good time to map out the areas of your lawn that you actually use, then make plans to convert the rest to water-wise vegetables, flowers, shrubs or trees. Consider using plants that are native to Western Washington, especially drought-tolerant natives such as the evergreen groundcover kinnikinnick, or the red-osier dogwood, a shrub with gleaming red branches that light up the winter landscape. 

Water-wise lawn care

For that remaining patch of lawn, mow it to a height of 1-1⁄2 to 2 inches. Long blades of grass shade the soil and encourage deeper root growth. The deeper the roots, the more drought tolerant your lawn will be.

Leave the lawn clippings on the grass; they help retain moisture and provide the lawn with nutrients. You can purchase a mulching mower, but if you mow often, the clippings left by your regular mower will break down effectively.

Allow your lawn to dry out between watering and test it first: Grass that does not spring back up after you walk on it needs water. One inch of water per week (including rainfall) should be sufficient for a green lawn throughout the summer.

To help water and oxygen penetrate down to the grass roots, aerate your lawn when the soil is moist. Water early in the morning before the sun comes up or late in the evening, so more water gets to the roots instead of evaporating during the heat of the day.

A tan lawn in late summer is fine with many people. If the rest of the landscape is lively and interesting, a lawn that fades from pale green to tan in spots provides a neutral backdrop. If you don’t live on a golf course, your yard doesn’t need to look like one.

When watering, be sure your sprinkler is set to cover only the lawn, not your driveway, sidewalk, the street, the neighbor’s car, etc. Even if you want a larger driveway, watering will not make it grow. Only the size of your water bill will increase.

How much water?

Gardeners often fluctuate between under-watering from neglect, then over-watering in a panic. How much water is enough?

First, check the soil moisture. Dig a hole in the garden 5 to 7 inches deep, grab a handful of soil. Squeeze. If water drips out, it’s wet enough. Toss the ball 6 inches into the air and let it drop into your hand. If it falls apart, it needs water.

It’s tempting, but not necessarily efficient, to water every day. Irrigate plants infrequently and deeply, especially before and during drought. This encourages plants to send their roots deep into the soil, where they are less likely to dry out. The goal is to saturate the area to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, much deeper than the typical holding-the-hose-while-talking-to-the-neighbor watering provides. Just because the soil surface is wet, the plant is not really watered.

Irrigation, soaker hose or coffee can?

Sprinklers are the least efficient way to apply water to a garden. Up to 30 percent of the water flying out from a sprinkler will evaporate before hitting the ground, and moistening the soil surface is not the goal.

Your thirsty plant needs water down at the roots. A soaker hose or drip irrigation system directs water right where it’s needed and works well for rows of plants. Establishing a drip irrigation system is an investment of time and money, but it can reduce your water usage by 20 to 50 percent. It’s certainly a better investment than many stocks.

What about those huge squash plants growing from well-spaced mounds instead of tight rows, or those thirsty tomato plants? Try this low-tech method: punch holes in the bottoms of juice or coffee cans, then push the cans 6 to 12 inches into the soil. Fill the cans with water, which will now seep into the soil right near the plant’s roots. 

Mulch, mulch and mulch

Mulch is a busy gardener’s best friend and makes watering much more effective. It helps soil stay cool and moist, giving plant roots a chance to soak up water, instead of evaporating from bare soil. A thick layer of mulch suppresses weed growth, a real benefit unless you’re fond of hoeing and pulling weeds all summer.

Pile three to four inches of well-rotted compost, straw, sawdust, leaves or even grass clippings along rows of vegetables, in flower beds, around shrubs and trees. At the end of the growing season, dig the mulch into the soil to decompose and add organic matter. Soil rich in organic material holds more water and nutrients. 

Water wisely (deeply and infrequently), mulch generously, and enjoy your summer garden.

Valerie Rose is a Washington State University/Skagit County certified Master Gardener. Questions may be submitted to the WSU Extension office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233. 360-428-4270.